Vermouths and food from Baja California at El Tigre Silencioso

For some years now, the Roma neighborhood has been abuzz with new restaurants and bars. Some go unnoticed or become tourist traps, but there are others like The Silent Tigerwhich has just celebrated its first year and has already made a lot of noise for its extensive drink menu and its delicious food originating from Baja California.

“We wanted to make a modern northern cantina to drink or eat well at any time of the day,” says Bernardo Galindo, partner of The Tiger. That’s why they open at one in the afternoon and turn off the stoves twelve hours later, until one in the morning. So you can go to lunch early, stop by to have a negroni in the afternoon or come to dinner at midnight, because “the idea was always that you can come and choose the experience you want.”

The Tiger It is inside a Porfirian mansion from 1914. Its main room has a large bar that invites you to order an appetizer or cocktail accompanied by some fish croquettes; You can also choose to sit in their armchairs to enjoy a feast that includes tuna with hazelnut butter and dry noodles with beef tail (a dish reminiscent of fideuá); or choose the terrace to drink a cold beer and mussels with chimi and morita chile mayonnaise.

The terrace of The Silent Tiger.
The terrace of The Silent Tiger.Aggi Garduño

This place is versatile like its partners, no one is the protagonist, but everyone brought their own vision and talent to create the concept. Bernardo Galindo is in charge, and brings the experience of other consolidated places such as Campobaja and bar Caimán. Chef David Castro Hussong, owner of the celebrated Fauna restaurant in Ensenada, is in charge of gastronomy; and Daniela D’Acosta brought the wines and vermouths from Valle de Guadalupe: “My family has always been dedicated to wines and we decided to make these special vermouths for El Tigre.”

Vermouth is a liquor made from wine infused with herbs or spices. It is common in several European countries as an aperitif, and is becoming popular among mixologists and consumers on this side of the Atlantic.

On a visit to El Tigre you have to try “the one from the house”, made by the Aborigen winery, led by Lucas D’Acosta, which, according to Daniela, is a vermouth that is far from the flavor of caramel or herbs: “This one is more close to the wave of vermouths in which producers seek to ensure that their wine continues to be present.” The red is served with a slice of orange, the pink with an olive and the white with a frozen grape.

Red, white and pink vermouth, on the bar of the El Tigre Silent restaurant.
Red, white and pink vermouth, on the bar of the El Tigre Silent restaurant.Aggi Garduño

My favorite is rosé, which can be dangerous because it goes in like water, but if you prefer classic vermouths, in The Tiger There is no loss, according to Daniela: “We plan to make a menu with many appetizers, low-alcohol drinks that you can drink at midday or light natural wines.” This obsession with good drinking includes craft ciders, beers, a wide variety of spirits, and even extends to coffee, which Galindo has personally paid attention to.

On the culinary side, The Tiger It is based on good produce, a hallmark of Baja Californian gastronomy, especially the trend born a few decades ago focused on fishing, vineyards and local agriculture, with vegetables very close to those used in the Mediterranean region.

In addition, Galindo explains, “Bajacalifornian cuisine has a mix of Asian cultures that brings a lot of the Chinese, Japanese or Koreans who migrated to the region.” That’s why the menu includes dishes with ikura (salmon roe), as well as a pasilla mixe chile taco (originally from Oaxaca) in a flour tortilla. And Mexicans from the south of the country also migrated to Baja California in search of new opportunities, who contributed their seasoning and ingredients to create one of the most diverse and thriving cuisines in Mexico.

Tuna with hazelnut butter, noodles with beef tail, mussels with chimi and three glasses of vermouth, at the El Tigre Silent restaurant.
Tuna with hazelnut butter, noodles with beef tail, mussels with chimi and three glasses of vermouth, at the El Tigre Silent restaurant.Aggi Garduño

Galindo defends that this restaurant, a mix of canteen and bar, is a fresh proposal where they seek “excellence in food and detail, but in a more informal way, as from everyday life.” He wants his clients to think about The Tiger for any occasion and whenever they feel like it.

In fact, they are about to open The tigrilloa new space on the ground floor of the establishment, with northern breakfasts and late-night drinks, because there is always room for more food and more drinks, and what better if it is northern and close by, in the heart of Mexico City.

El Tigre Silent Restaurant in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City on November 29, 2023.

The Silent Tiger

Category: Cantina – Bar – Signature cuisine
Casa Basalta: Colima 159, Int. 1a, Colonia Roma Norte, Mexico City
Price: 600 – 800 pesos

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